How to prolong the life of your refrigeration equipment.
Condensing units and Evaporators
For those of you that do not know what a condensing unit is I have included the image below as well
as two example enlargements of a condensing unit and evaporator coil.
All commercial refrigeration equipment has some form of condensing unit, air or water cooled.
The "Condenser" is the finned square device with the fan positioned in the center.
This is the part that needs to be cleaned on a regular basis because it turns the freon from a compressed hot gas to a semi-saturated liquid. Semi-saturated means it is mostly liquid freon.
At the condenser, the fan draws air through the fins to cool the hot gas from the "Compressor" (Similar to the radiator in your car that cools the water).
When "Condensers" get clogged with dust and oil from a kitchen or debris from being outside they begin to function less efficiently. When this happens the unit must run longer to remove heat from the products in the refrigerator or freezer or in the case of air conditioning units, the space it was designed to cool.
As you are aware that they all run on electricity 16 to 20 hours everyday and are not cheap to operate.
Cleaning regularly is imperative to maintain optimum efficiency and to lower utility costs.
It will also prolong the life of your refrigeration units meaning less repair or replacement costs.
In the walk-in the evaporator coil/s need to be cleaned regularly but generally not as often as the condenser. To check the evaporator coil/s (turn the fans off first) shine a bright light through the back of the coil and view it from the front. The fins should be cleared of all debris. Air moves from the back of the coil to the front. Check for plastic food wrap from containers. This can be a major problem if it is drawn up and attaches itself to the fins. Kitchen oils that are in the air tends to cling to both condenser and evaporator coil fins and is somewhat difficult to clean without a professional grade coil cleaner. Be careful what you use, some cleaning chemicals dissolve aluminum.
Cleaning requires care as the fins are light aluminum and bend easily. VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT CLEAN COILS HORIZONTALLY ONLY UP AND DOWN. Make sure all the fins are straight and open.
When a coil is clean it allows optimum air flow for efficient cooling and less compressor run time.
You can buy a Fin Comb Here
The evaporator coil drain line can cause problems
when algea builds
up and prevents condensate water(Click on the evaporator coil link below) from being expelled outside the walk-in.
If drain clogging occurs ice will begin forming on the back of the coil. Eventually it will stop the air flow
completely. This will cause the evaporator to eventually freeze up.
Note: PLEASE DO NOT USE SHARP OBJECTS TO REMOVE ICE FROM ANY EVAPORATOR COIL. THERE ARE REFRIGERANT TUBES IMMEDIATELY BEHIND THE FINS. TURN THE COMPRESSOR OFF AND LEAVE THE FAN/S RUNNING. THIS WILL START AIR DEFROSTING OF THE COILS. THEN CALL ME.
These guidelines apply to all your refrigeration equipment. Check the respective units often to determine
how often cleaning is needed. If you have questions about how to clean these units call or email me .
When I started this business in 1984 it was the beginning of my second career. I was 42 years old. I just turned 75 and still working doing what I love. Through the years I have met hundreds of interesting people in and around the Salem area. Many are clients that I have had for over 20 years. This tribute is a heartfelt thank you to all of you for your friendship and loyalty.
We all appreciate prompt service and quality work. When refrigeration units fail most businesses do not have a spare reach-in, walk-in cooler or freezer to transfer product into and if you are lucky enough to have one it's still an unwelcome inconvenience. This is why our prompt service is so important. A one hour response time for the Salem area is what we try to maintain depending upon other service obligations. WE DO NOT CHARGE EXTRA FOR OFF HOUR OR WEEKEND SERVICE CALLS.
All applicable work is guaranteed or warranted.
Imperial's prefabricated modular panels are built to maximize
your available space in a wide variety of applications.
They are designed for easy field installation and future disassembly,
enlargement, or relocation. All walk-in units are custom built to
your specifications. Available Construction is Wood or High-Density frame Foamed-in-place Class I non-CFC urethane insulation
Metal and wood finishes including stucco galvanized, white stucco galvanized,
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Thicknesses: 3.½, 4.½, 5½, 5.½ and 7.½.
Reach-in windows and entry doors are placed according to customer preference. A large range of
door types and styles are available and are designed to meet your specific needs.
Another important detail for Oregon buyers is the ( Oregon Seal of Compliance ) or (Insignia(s) of Compliance)
If you are considering buying a new walk-in cooler or freezer out of state it must have this seal or be an Oregon State approved manufacturer, otherwise upon inspection it fail to meet Oregon Standards and you will not be allowed to utilize it. Make sure you ask the seller if this seal is available. This rule also applies to used equipment within the state. "Why"? Your refrigeration installer must provide a local building and mechanical permit for the walk-in. When the unit is inspected the inspector will look for the NSF seal and Oregon Seal of Compliance.
Read Oregon Building Codes PDF. Type or copy and paste this number 918-674-0130 in "Find" at the top of the PDF page.
The average cost of standard 8ft x 10ft x 8ft no frills walk-in cooler with refrigeration in today's market
(Oregon-2017) is approximately $131.00 per sqr.ft.
Walk-in Freezers will be 5 to 15 percent more because of the extra installation costs. Freezers require insulated cam-lock flooring to prevent buckling and larger condensing units with electric defrost evaporators.
Information you should have prior to requesting a walk-in cooler or freezer quote.
Download Scotsman Prodigy Ice machine Service Manual Here
Ice Machine Maintenance
Ice machines need regular cleaning.
This is very important for proper sanitation and efficient operation of the unit.
Regardless of how internally secure the machine may be, dust, grease and algea will form inside and eventually cause a wide range of problems.
Algea builds up in moist places especially the water distributor. The water distributor is located behind the ice curtain at the top. Check your user manual for cleaning instructions. Another is the ice bin. This is usually the most neglected area of the ice machine because it is the most annoying part to clean. The reason for this is that all the ice must be removed to clean it. It needs to be cleaned at least every 90 days as should the rest of the machines cleanable parts. Algea will not cause illness as a rule but it will eventually clog water ports and get into your ice. Besides it's gross stuff and people do not like "Slime" in there beverages.
Each model of ice machine has it's own unique method of cleaning. Some models such as Hoshizaki are excellent ice machines but are not very user friendly when it comes to cleaning unless you are somewhat mechanically inclined. There are water distributors at the top of the machine that need to be removed for cleaning and water hose removal is required. The float switch is also difficult to remove and has intricate parts that need to be removed
for cleaning. Again, check your user manual. This is something that should be done by a professional. If you need manuals for any ice machine just call or email me and I will send them to you.
If possible purchase a bottom mount refrigerator or freezer. (The compressor is located at the bottom of the unit.)
The reason: Heat rises hence the floor is the coolest place in the kitchen.
Heat is the enemy of all refrigeration.
Compressors located at the top collect more dust and grease. Bottom mount units are easier to clean.
All refrigeration unit condensers need cleaning, how often depends on the location.
The quality of workmanship has proven to be outstanding with many years of service that are
free from breakdowns and ills that befall other brands. But after all is said and done it is just a machine.
It needs care and maintenance. It is probably the most neglected piece of equipment in a kitchen.
The reasons are it is a high use piece of equipment and usually not on casters and between other equipment which makes it difficult to move but the condenser must be cleaned on a regular basis or you will find yourself calling a service tech and you wont like the bill nor the down time inconvenience.
What you can do:
Pull the unit out to determine whether you have a exposed condensing unit. IF the back of the unit is covered with sheet metal remove the screws. When it's open check the front of the condenser(the finned area on the outside similar to a car's radiator) and if it's dirty brush the dust off with a vegetable brush, NOT a wire brush. If it is clogged with a greasy film and dust and doesn't clean properly you should have a professional refrigeration service tech come and do it. (PLEASE CALL ME)
Check the condenser by shinning a bright light through from the back by the fan motor. If you cannot see your light or it is faint it's not clean. Click the links below for an example of a Condensing Unit and Troubleshooting Guide. Good Luck!
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All models feature forced air refrigeration to keep beer in kegs ice cold for dispensing.
Three-inch insulated towers(stanchions) are provided with single or multiple faucets.Each
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These keg coolers are top of the line equipment
that is low maintenance delivering 35 degree beer at all times.
To clean the taps you should use a professional tap cleaning service.
Fully assembled welded frame construction.
Choice of standard colors.
Full view tempered insulated glass sliding doors.
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Stainless steel interior bottom.
Self contained floral refrigeration system.
New environmentally friendly CFC free R134A refrigerant.
8' long 115 volt cord and plug with attached electric condensate evaporator. Ethylene Gas Filters: